West Highland Way Stage 5 – Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse is the fifth stage of the West Highland Way and is a fabulous day walking as you march on deeper into the highlands. With Black Mount to your west, you’ll cross the wilds of Rannoch Moor gently ascending to 445m before an easy descent with panoramic views up ahead, Buachaille Etive Mor, Scotland’s most photographed mountain dominating the sky line. Expansive views today as the landscape really opens up, Rannoch Moor is mile after mile of unrivalled beauty framed by mountain ranges.

This is an easy day’s walking however the road is long and in some points quite stony which can prove hard underfoot. It’s important to stay on the broad, clear track as in places you can sink into the peat bog. There are two ascents which are long and undulating so feel less tiring. The high point is 445m which is marked by a cairn affording glorious panoramic views if the weather is playing ball.

There’s no where to have lunch between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse so I would suggest getting a packed lunch from your accommodation in Bridge or Orchy or stopping at the ‘wee shop’ in Inveroran to buy a sandwich to cross the moor with.

The Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse stage takes between 5 – 6 hours of continuous walking (without stops).

After crossing the Bridge of Orchy, built in around 1750 by Caulfield for the British troops, pass the lovely wild camping spot and continue on the first section of today’s walk from Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse – the steep uphill climb ascending some 163m to a high point. An optional quick ascent just a little further takes you to large stone cairn overlooking Loch Tulla. Enjoy the fine views and then descend steeply to Inveroran Hotel. Pop into the ‘wee shop’ for a hot cuppa or a decent coffee and snack or to buy some lunch to take with you. They have a small indoor space where hikers can shelter & warm up with their drinks. Expect this first part to take between 1 – 1.5 hours. If you want to make this section easier it’s possible to just follow the main road from Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran which avoids any ascent.

The Inveroran Hotel and ‘wee’ shop are a delight. The famed Inveroran Hotel is an excellent place to overnight in. This former thatch roofed drovers Inn opened in 1708 (renowned English poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy stayed here in 1803 “Only four eggs in the house,” wrote Dorothy Wordsworth following a breakfast at the inn, “which they had boiled as hard as stone.) is the perfect setting away from the busy A82 to spend the night. Owners, Nadia and Ewan, are very welcoming and with its remote location, excellent food & warm hospitality, it’s known to be one of the best accommodations on the West Highland Way. Note that beds book up extremely fast so aim to book a year in advance.

The Inveroran Hotel’s ‘wee shop’ sells a large variety of lunch staples (sandwiches, quorn bowls, fruit, yogurt) snacks (kind protein bars, nuts, olives, dried fruit, crisps, chocolate, donuts, muffins) hot drinks as well as some trekking essentials such as arnica cream, deep heat, compeed blister plasters and midge spray etc. They also sell camping food such as instant noodles, canned soup, canned tuna & sardines). Cash only.

Water refill: there is a water tap on the outside wall at the back of the hotel.

Camping is permitted nearby Inveroran Hotel – cross the next bridge and the wild campsite is immediately on the right hand side next to the river. The hotel has a ‘walkers bar’ open from 11am – 11pm daily. Evening meals are served every day 6-7pm and campers are welcome to eat here. Breakfast is served from 7.30am.

From Inveroran the trail continues along the road skirting around the western side of Loch Tulla crossing Victoria Bridge before entering through a gate onto a broad track picking up the old military road. The gate has a large sign ‘drove road to Glencoe’ with a West Highland Way signpost marker. Just before one of the two stone bridges you’ll see a track to the right to Black Mount Lodge, a former Victorian hunting lodge owned by the Fleming family (Ian Fleming wrote the James Bond books). After passing the conifer plantation on your right you will emerge onto fabled Rannoch Moor.

The old drovers road with its ancient cobbles embedded into the surface can be hard going underfoot but be glad of it, for what you are crossing is essentially waterlogged bog. Do not veer off the trail. The trail continues ascending steadily.

It’s lovely to finally feel in the wilderness. The route There are a couple of nice bridges that offer a good place to sit a while, have a break and take in your surroundings. Shortly before Ba Bridge (below) you’ll pass the shallow Lochan Mhic Pheadair Ruaidh.

Ba Bridge is essentially the point of no return. It’s roughly half way to Kingshouse. If the weather is deteriorating rapidly by this point, it makes sense to turn around and head back to shelter in Inveroran.

Ba Bridge crosses a small gorge of red granite slabs. The River Ba tumbles quickly through with a clutch of rowan trees guarding the bridge. This whole area is known as the Black Mount, which is the mountain range to the the west of you (on your left) although its more of a plateau than a mountain.

Around you the shifting light can be extraordinarily in this vast landscape.

From Ba Bridge, you’ll soon pass the ruins of Ba Cottage on the left as you ease into an easier second ascent which gradually climbs up to up the highest point (445m) marked by a cairn (dedicated to Peter Fleming, the brother of Ian Fleming of 007 fame, who had a fatal heart attack whilst out shooting in the 1971. Their family owns Black Mount Lodge which you will have passed after leaving Inveroran.

From the cairn it’s an easy descent on the sound track with splendid views of Buachaille Etive Mor up ahead. This mountain (Scotland’s most photographed!) is captivating. Gazing upon it never grows old and no two days ever look the same.

It’s a 3 mile descent to Kingshouse. The track curves and bends around the flanks of Meall a’Bhuiridh. Down in the distance to your far right you can see Kingshouse Hotel.

You’ll finally pass a blue accommodation sign (below left) with a narrow trail to the left which is a short cut to Glencoe Mountain Resort (accommodation in pods – sleeping bags can be rented, café provides hot meals until 6pm). Note Glencoe Mountain Resort is the only other accommodation in this area apart from Kingshouse Hotel or Glencoe a further 13 miles away (Note: Glencoe is not on the West Highland Way).

Carry straight on if you’re heading to Kingshouse popping out on the Glencoe Mountain Resort access road. You’ll then pass the much photographed Blackrock Cottage with the hulk of Buachaille Etive Mor in the background. The cottage belongs to the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club.

From here you are within a stone’s throw of Kingshouse Hotel. A short walk down to cross the busy A82 road where the trail continues on the far side with an undulating track to the hotel. It takes around 20 minutes from the road to the hotel. Note that the bus stops at this junction. The bus stop is called ‘Glencoe Ski Centre Road End’.

Bus to/from Kingshouse

The buses for this route are the 914, 915, 916, 977 operated by Scottish City Link as well as the 975 operated by West Coast Motors. If you want to arrive at this point for example to start just a 2 day WHW itinerary it will take around 2.5 hrs from Glasgow to be dropped here at the ‘Glencoe Ski Centre Road End’ (£26.70 adult single) or if you want to get to the trail end in Fort William it will take you 50 minutes from here to Fort William (£16.40). Be sure to book online and have a ticket as the Glasgow to Fort William line is very busy and often buses are full.

Timings

The walking times for today are average walking speed. These are the times it took for me and my 70 year old Mum to complete this section of the trail. Its also in corresponds with the Cicerone guidebook which also allocate 5-6 hours between Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse. Of course those of you fitter and younger will complete this section much quicker.