West Highland Way Stage 4 – Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy

Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy, the third stage of the West Highland Way, runs over glens and low passes. To be brutally honest Crianlarich and Tyndrum are not particularly visitor magnets and should be treated just as overnight or provision stops. After Tyndrum there are no further shops until Kinlochleven.

In my opinion this is probably the least spectacular stage of the WHW route however between Crianlarich to Tyndrum a visit to the delightful Artisan Café is likely to bring you the best cup of coffee on the West Highland Way as well as a mouth watering cake selection, many gluten free. Before the café you’ll pass by the mossy ruins of the tiny St Fillian’s Priory – thought to have been founded by Robert 1, King of Scots.

The trail between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy is much more scenic with the star of the show, Beinn Dòrain, a conical volcano shaped mountain, dominating the skyline teasing us of what is to come. Of course you are already officially in the Highlands however the mighty landscapes are still just out of reach.

Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy takes approximately 7 hours of continuous walking (without stops).

Crianlarich or indeed Tyndrum are good places to start the trail if you have 4 or respectively 3 and a half days off to experience the West Highland Way because both towns are on the train line so have are good transport links to arrive on. My 4 day itinerary starting in Crianlarich allows a nice gentle introduction onto the West Highland Way taking in the historic ruin of St Fillian’s Priory, the Holy Pool and tea and scones at the Artisan Café church. Or if you’re using the morning to still to travel to the area, aim to arrive at Tyndrum station at lunch time or latest mid afternoon knowing the 6 miles stretch from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy takes approximately 3-4 hours. By arriving in Tyndrum you’ll see the best parts of this section – its a easy stroll for the afternoon to the Bridge of Orchy.

If you have 5 days to spare consider my Highlights West Highland Way itinerary which starts in Balmaha taking in the two day stretch of Loch Lomond, a night at the reputedly haunted Drovers Inn before making your way by bus Bridge of Orchy to begin the last three days of incomparable scenery .

Crianlarich to Tyndrum

6 miles / 10 km (around 4 hours)

You’ll set off today from Crianlarich to pick up the West Highland Way trail from the signposted deer fence/kissing gate where you veered off yesterday. It’s just 15-20 minutes stiff climb back to the trail from the train station in Crianlarich where the trail is well marked for the West Highland Way / Drovers Trail. The Crianlarich Crossroads has some information on the history of those who have travelled this route in times gone by. Names the ‘rugged drovers and nervous stagecoaches who passed this way before stopping at Crianlarich for food & lodgings’ as well as the ‘red coated soldiers who marched north from Loch Lomond over the watershed to Glen Falloch where you’re standing now and down to Strathfillan’.

The WHW trail from here climbs steadily north-west, the scarred landscape from tree felling feels ugly but enables good views. The trail becomes more pleasant now passing through a conifer plantation and around 30 minute later you’ll pass a sign to the right for Ewich House B&B 200m – an excellent overnight stop before the path follows a stream and dips underneath the railway arches before popping out onto the main road (A82) after a short stretch on the old glen road. Cross the road with care and turn left to reach a stile which leads you into section 2 of today’s stage St Fillian’s Priory to Tyndrum.

From the ruins its a short walk over fields to Auchterytre Farm which has a campsite, wigwam accommodation (sleeping bags required but available to rent) and farm shop. The trail goes directly through the farm, over a bridge and veers left to dip once more under the A82 road. An old stone bridge on your left, the path continues straight however you’ll see a sign for the fantastic ARTISAN CAFÉ which is 400 yards off the trail (just over the stone bridge and left). This is delightful café housed in a church which will be a highlight of your day. Definitely take time out for a rest stop for a much enjoyed refreshment here.

It’s around another hour from the café to Tyndrum. Less than ten minutes later you’ll pass the site of The Battle of Dalrigh where Robert the Bruce is said to been defeated in battle with the MacDougalls of Lorne just after he was crowned King of Scotland. Previously they had been allies during the Wars of Independence in 1296 but when Robert the Bruce murdered the nephew of the Clan Chief 10 years later for being also in line to the throne they became sworn enemies. Clan MacDougall then allied themselves with Edward I of England. After the defeat he fled to the hills with his supporters and came back to defeat the MacDougalls at the Battle of the Pass. There’s nothing to see now apart from the information board however let your imagination run wild and you can imagine the surprise when Robert the Bruce was ambushed in this very place.

The Way skirts a bridge and passes another bridge before the another information board tells of the legend of the Lost Sword as you pass a small lochan (baby loch) on your right (legend is that after his defeat Robert the Bruce threw his sword into the lochan) before hitting the final stretch to Tyndrum. Just before Tyndrum you’ll reach a single stone pillar where walkers have piled up stones just before a gate that you’ll pass through. The pillar marks an old lead smelting area. There are two accommodation options here – Glengarry Guest House and By the Way Hostel & campsite which also has trekker huts and an array of pods all of which require sleeping bags (available to rent). The hostel has good private rooms and dorms. This hostel is run by walkers for walkers so is pretty spot in with what walkers require.

A short distance further you’ll pass Pine Trees Leisure Park which is more of a caravan park but they now have some huts available. Its a ten minute walk from here into Tyndrum via Lower Station Road (Tyndrum has two railway stations so if you’re planning on skipping a section and heading up to Bridge of Orchy or are finishing here choosing to maybe finish the Way on another trip and heading to Fort William or back to Glasgow then make sure you choose the right station for your destination).

Tyndrum is a small village but has a variety of pit stop cafés and shops. The Real Food Café is popular with queues out onto the street (!) along with The Tyndrum Inn serving pub fare. Further up The Green Welly is almost a walker’s service station with an ATM, self service cafeteria and shop selling compeed, midge spray, maps and everything else walkers and campers may need.

Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy

7 miles / 11.5 km (around 3 hours)

This section of the West Highland Way from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy can be done in an afternoon or separated into a leisurely day. The trail follows the old military road sharing the valley with the busy road to the left and the less frequently used railway, the scenic West Highland Line. The views are dominated by two mountains on the right – first the rounded hump of Beinn Odhar followed by the impressive conical mountain, Beinn Dòrain (1076m) to the north.

You’ll climb up a hill and then descend before dipping underneath the train tracks (photo: above left) before continuing on a fantastic stretch with glorious Beinn Dòrain in all its glory ahead of you. For me this is where the West Highland Way really begins to get exciting. Beinn Dòrain signals the first of many mountains as you start to push into the highlands.

As you approach Auch the railway curves to the right crossing the glen on two impressive steel viaducts (Auch Horseshoe Viaduct). After Auch it’s interesting to know that this track was, before 1930, the main road to the north. The track crosses the lower slopes of Benin Dòrain before arriving at Bridge of Orchy.

There is limited accommodation in Bridge of Orchy. The main accommodation is 4 star Bridge of Orchy hotel which has rooms in the main building as well as extra rooms in buildings to the rear near the river. Another excellent option a stone’s throw from the hotel is Greenstone Lodge B&B run by Hayley and Chris. This vegan B&B is absolutely fantastic. Offering only two ensures rooms, a twin and a double, I was wowed by my stay here. I have to admit I was a little apprehensive about the B&B being vegan but Chris, a former vegan head chef, created the most amazing dishes – I would literally eat vegan everyday if I had a chef like this on hand at my beck and call. Other accommodation is the West Highland Way Sleeper, a bunk house located in a working train station. The last accommodation option in Bridge of Orchy are some pods near the train station that offer basic accommodation (Bridge of Orchy Eco Pods).

Timings

The walking times for today are average walking speed. These are the times it took for me and my 70 year old Mum to complete this section of the trail. It also tallies with the Cicerone guidebook which also allocate 7 hours between Crianlarich and Bridge of Orchy. Of course those of you fitter and younger will complete this section much quicker.

Public Transport