West Highland Way Stage 3 – Rowardennan to Crianlarich 

Rowardennan to Crianlarich, the third stage of the West Highland Way is A LONG STAGE. The longest stage by far and arguably too long to walk in one day. Rowardennan to Crianlarich takes between 10-12 hours of continuous walking – without stops! Wow!

It’s worth noting that Crianlarich is 0.9 miles (1.5km – around 20 mins) off the WHW trail however with its large popular Crianlarich Hotel (Best Western) as well as numerous B&Bs its a popular stop over choice as well as Inver

The route from Rowardennan to Crianlarich is known to be the hardest out of all the stages of the West Highland Way. The route from Rowardennan to Inversnaid is along forest tracks continuing along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond with some rocky sections with boulders and crags, however the trail between Inversnaid to Inverarnan is the most difficult section of the West Highland Way and should not be underestimated. The trail brutally clings to the loch shore, which however beautiful, is a punishing section constantly climbing up and down the rugged terrain. It’s a strenuous section that requires concentration – not dangerous but expect to take much longer than you anticipated. It’s on this section that you can rock hop to try to find the elusive Rob Roy’s cave. I did finally on my third walk of the West Highland Way – it’s difficult to find!

Rowardennen to Inversnaid

The first stage from Rowardennan to Inversnaid is 7 miles long initially on forest tracks and then along a tricky rocky loch side path.

Before Ben Lomond Bunkhouse there’s a water re-fill station. Soon after you’ll pass Ben’s Bakes, a well stocked delightfully pink honesty shop outside Ben Lomond Cottage remarkably selling a vast array of food from cheese rolls, stilton & broccoli / cheese, tomato & onion quiches, banana & caramel loaf, triple choc muffins, rocky road, crisps, sweets, fruit, water and fizzy pop. You can pay by cash or there’s a QR code to pay by PayPal (photos above). It’s worth stocking up here as Inversnaid Hotel’s walkers bar does not serve lunch, only coffee and cakes.

The trail then passes through woodland on a wide track (with a lush carpet of bluebells if walking in May) before coming to a junction around an hour from Rowardennan where it’s possible to take a higher alternative track which follows an easy forestry track and that passes numerous waterfalls. This in actual fact used to be the official route. Consider this alternative higher track in bad weather or if you haven’t broken this stage up into smaller chunks or if mobility on technical sections could be an issue (see info box below). Be sure to keep an eye out for the turn off, which although no longer signposted is easy to spot if your looking our for it. It’s also marked on any offline digital map (GPS Gaia or Alltrails).

The new official route begins with an easy track. Before long you’ll ascend to find some excellent wild camping spots right next to the route. The trail then runs again alongside the loch which in May has swathes of memorising bluebells, a purple mass of pure joy. You’ll pass some lovely beaches, the Way then heads into the woods where you’ll pass mossy ruins before Rowchoish Bothy. Keep an eye out for feral goats on this section – you might just smell them before you see them! Stinky but great fun to watch! Just after here the high track variant merges back with the lower route before crossing a wooden bridge at Cailness. The Way then enters Craigrostan Wood, home to ancient oaks, still hugging the loch side before finally skirting the pretty Invernaid Falls.

Right next to the falls is the imposing Victorian Inversnaid Hotel owned by a coach tour company. Walkers can stay overnight here however passing walkers aren’t well catered for. The hotel has a walkers bar with its own entrance but disappointing only sell drinks and cakes. Such a shame. You can fill up your water bottle in the bar.

Inversnaid Accommodation

Like Rowardennan accommodation in Inversnaid is limited. Hands down my favourite of the handful of offerings here in Inversnaid is the fantastic Inversnaid Bunk House which offers private rooms and dorm accommodation. The guys that run this place are amazing! Their restaurant Top Bunk Bistro is fantastic. The venison stew is sublime washed down with a bottle of red! Hands down the best food on the entire trail. I’ve also stayed at Loch Arklet Guest House which is a great option with private rooms and stayed at the fantastic Inversnaid Garrison which boasts a hot tub AND an enormous hog! These three are the only options in Inversnaid, apart from the big hotel, and be aware you do need to need to climb one last hill to get there ……. however if you’ve booked into the Inversnaid Bunk House, call them from the bar at the hotel and they will come and collect you. On my first stay we ate at the Bunkhouse whilst staying at Arklet House B&B – after dinner the rain was a deluge & the chaps kindly ran us up in the car – these guys are legends and always go the extra mile.

Public transport to and from Inversnaid

Public transport is very limited to and from Inversnaid. It’s possibly the hardest point to get to on the West Highland Way. It IS possible to get a taxi in and out if necessary, however this can be expensive as the road goes via Aberfoyle. There is no bus service. However there is the option of catching the ferry to Sloy Power Station. This service is run by Cruise Loch Lomond but is not advertised as its a private service for the guests of the hotel. They do however accept private passengers so call in advance or call the hotel to ask what times the ferry will be operating on the day in question. Make sure that you are there in good time as the ferry can leave once all the hotel guests are onboard and so can leave five minutes early if everyone is onboard. This is exactly what happened to me after running down the hill with 2 minutes to spare, I was met with the sight of the ferry sailing into the distance. Unbeknown to me the ferry would turn around after dropping the passengers off and return for a second hoard of spritely and less spritely elderly bus tour participants. I was finally able to jump aboard and the friendly crew allowed me to pay over the phone later in the day as their card machine wasn’t working. From Sloy you can pick up the Glasgow to Fort William bus service or pre-arrange a taxi service to collect you for onward transport.

Inversnaid to Inverarnan

Invernsnaid to Inverarnan is 6.5 miles (10.5km) and is marked in most guidebooks as taking between 2.5-3hrs without stoppages. I would add an extra hour on to be safe and suggest, obviously on your fitness, but on average allocate 3-4 hours for this section. It can take me 3-3.5hours hiking solo or whilst walking with my Mum it haas taken me anywhere between 4 hours to even 5 hours on the last occasion.

Remember the next 3 miles (5km) is the most difficult part of the West Highland Way. The route rises and falls unrelentingly along the loch shore over tree roots, boulders and crags – with some wooden boards, ladders and bridges to help you along. That said it is undisputedly a beautiful stretch of trail. Expect to scramble using your hands and feet in certain sections. In good weather, with time on your side, this is a fantastic route which will make your heart sing. In bad weather take the alternative route. If you are have realised you’ve bitten off more than you can chew with the number of miles on your itinerary today, just enjoy this section and know that you can take the bus from Inverarnan (pre-book on your mobile online even just 30 minutes before) or order a taxi onwards. The Way after Inverarnan is easily serviced by the road.

After setting off from Inversnaid you’ll soon come to a rickety boat house (5 mins) in a secluded cove. Just beyond this is a lovely wild camping spot where walkers can camp for free. Fires are not permitted. Just after this watch out for a picnic area of oak leaf carved benches and an acorn table which can alert you to the fact that you are nearly at the spot to look for the elusive turn off to Rob Roy’s cave. It’s just after a narrow craggy descent that is way marked by a beautiful ringed tree stump. At the bottom of the descent carry on for 20 metres or so then look for a dogs leg back to the left from the main trail. Update: April 2025 – reflective strips have been attached to a tree which handily marks the turn off for the cave.

After slogging it out for some time over the rocks and tree roots, The Way will emerge onto a level, clear section of around 200m with splendid views of the growing mountains and over the water to the tiny island I Vow. Enjoy this view before the path continues through another tricky section along the shore (with the almost vertical wooden ladder – see the photo of my Mum above) before finally popping out on an easier trail that leads to a beautiful beach area. Phew the technical section is over. It will be a relief.

It would be easy to assume that the loch in fact ends here. A promontory juts out deceiving the walker but in fact no, from the beach it’s a gentle ascent though birch woods before entering a wide glen with a worthy view of mountains north. The glen descends gently to a much talked about ruined cottage ensconced in razor wire, occupying an enviable position overlooking the loch, also being very close neighbours to Doune Byre Bothy (see info box below and photo below right). Shortly after walkers arrive at the quirky ferry pier at Ardleish. The tiny ferry boat comes over from Ardlui to collect passengers (at scheduled times only, normally on the hour). One must hoist the ball on the pole to indicate your wish to be picked up. Instructions on how to this are detailed on the sign. The ferry ride takes just a few minutes and costs £5 per passenger, making Ardlui Hotel a good overnight accommodation option. The hotel also has a campsite with camping pods available for up to 3 people or 6 people. Sleeping bags are required for the pods however are available to rent on-site. The tiny boat ferry is delightful. A highlight if you can work it into your itinerary.

Ardleish to Inverarnan

After the ferry pier the West Highland Way climbs to a low col. Make time to veer off the path momentarily to enjoy the final loch views at Cnap Mor. The turn on the left is obvious, there is a gate here that is normally open for you to saunter the 30 metres or so to a good look out point. After this you’ll wave good bye to Loch Lomond, a companion for over two days and head north descending into Glen Falloch. The Ardleish to Inverarnan section takes a little longer than you would expect, around 1.5 hours in total. It feels a lot longer after the tricky loch side section so keep going, ignoring your aching feet – you still have some way to go! If the weather is fine, you’ll see some cracking hills ahead of you as you stomp the old boards keeping you out of the boggy ground. You’ll follow to the right of River Falloch over pleasant moorland with three Munros hulks rising before you (Beinn Lui, Beinn Oss and Beinn Dubhcraig) before crossing a bridge at Ben Glas Burn arriving at Beinglas Farm Campsite.

Beinglas Farm Campsite has rave reviews and does in fact offer some private rooms, bell tents which include all bedding, and camping pods (sleeping bag required but you can rent one). Their on-site pub, the Stagger Inn serves excellent lunches and dinners. They also have a small shop onsite.

If you are ultra fit and undertaking the Rowardennan to Crianlarich stage in one day, just a heads up – there is no-where to buy food in-between Inverarnan and Crianlarich so make the most of the shop at Beinglas Farm Campsite.

It’s a short walk from Beinglas Farm Campsite along the main road to Inverarnan (around 7-8 minutes) home to the infamous Drovers Inn, one of the oldest inns in Scotland with a reputation for being haunted. The Drovers is a popular overnight stop on the West Highland Way probably due to the ghost stories and the weighted history this building has. The hotel certainly plays on its 17th century coaching inn roots – guests are treated to almost an authentic experience of a drovers Inn with the decor and furniture reflecting its past, the bar. Think stuffed animals and dust laden chandeliers. That said the food and atmosphere is good. Your choice whether to stay here. Opt for the main inn rather than the ‘lodges’ on the other side of the road. If you’re booking a self guided trek then check which accommodation you’ll be staying in, as not everyone wants to stay in a potentially haunted room. The rooms are small but clean. Some find the Drovers Inn creepy, some find it cheesy but most revel in the historic drama of this ancient inn and enjoy the experience for what it is.

Inverarnan to Crianlarich

It takes approximately 3 hours to cover the 6.5 miles (10.5km) from Inverarnan to Crianlarich. . The West Highland Way strikes out continuing along Glen Falloch following the curves and rapids of the Falloch River. The hills of the Highlands are now on display, however this is nothing compared to the striking beauty of what is to come further on the trail at Rannoch Moor and Glencoe.

It’s much easier going that the previous sections along Loch Lomond although the accessibility brings with it downfalls – the busy road (A82) follows the curve of the river becoming a constant audible companion. Unfortunately the striking scenery is punctuating by unattractive electricity pylons. Trains pass by regularly with their reassuring clickety clack.

Look out two miles after Beinglas Farm Campsite for the difficult to see from the trail – the Falls of Falloch on your left. Initially you’ll have seen some lovely tumbling cascades but you’ll hear the Falls of Falloch as you approach & you’ll spy the car park and viewing area from the opposite bank however it’s actually very difficult to even get a glimpse of the waterfall from the West Highland Way trail so I’m not sure why guidebooks even mention it. There is no bridge for you to pass over to the other side to access the viewing point so it’s a little pointless.

You’ll pass some ruins before passing the white washed farm of Derrydaroch and turning left over the bridge. It’s very protected here from the wind so it’s easy to linger. The trail gradually climbs but the path is unchallenging and easy underfoot. The trail squashes under a railway bridge through a ‘sheep creep’ and then descends under the A82 busy road in a trippy tunnel (film it on your phone as you walk through – it’s psychedelic!) before picking up the Caulfield’s enduring military trail climbing for a few miles towards woodland. This section can be quite wet depending on recent weather conditions as numerous streams run off the hillside. You’ll reach a large fence with a kissing gate that signals the turnoff for Crianlarich to the right, Tyndrum to the left. This is the half way point of the West Highland Way. Crianlarich is 15 minutes walk from here to the right. If you’ve booked Erich House B&B for the night, it can be easier to continue straight on at the kissing gate/deer fence along Bogle Glen to reach the main road (A82). Turning left you can walk along the road (take care) to the Ewich House turn off further on the right. Note: if you are walking from Inverarnan to Tyndrum and have a packed lunch, I wouldn’t say Crianlarich is really worth a stop at. Crianlarich is actually not on the West Highland and you can save 30-40 minutes by not turning in and keeping on the trail if you want to shorten your day. If you want a hot lunch however The Real Food Cafe is a real crowd pleaser with cracking coffee and the best fish and chips on the entire West Highland Way.

Conclusion – Rowardennan to Crianlarich stage 3

In conclusion consider carefully in your planning whether you want to undertake the Rowardennan to Crianlarich stage in just one day. It’s safe to say that only ridiculously fit fast packers could reasonably manage this. For mere mortals the options are having a longer first day on the WHW walking all the way to Balmaha and then on day 2 walk from Balmaha to Inversnaid which means you would shorten stage 3 by walking Inversnaid to Crianlarich on day 3. Or you could choose to avoid the tricky loch side path on the Rowardennan to Crianlarich stage by taking the easier variant trail along the forest track from Ptarmigan Lodge which would cut the time on this stage. If you’re trekking an 8 or 9 day itinerary it’s easy to carve this section up. If you’re set on a 7 day I would walk a little extra another day to cut up the stage 3 from Rowardennan to Crianlarich – it’s the toughest section of the trail by far.