The 96 mile (153km) West Highland Way route follows ancient drover roads and old military roads from the lowlands of Scotland to the highlands. Starting on the outskirts of Glasgow, The West Highland Way, Scotland’s most popular long distance walking trail with approximately 3,300m of ascent and descent, starts in a small town called Milngavie (pronounced Mull Guy) and ends at Fort William, a popular outdoor hub at the foot of Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest mountain.
The West Highland Way route is linear and generally trekked from South to North ….
…this way the trekker passes from the lowlands to the highlands – this is contrast to bygone times when drovers would walk their cattle from north to to the markets in the south! For the long distance walker though, the south to north route direction is preferred enabling one to leave behind the grimes of a city – stepping out and walking northwards to the sweeping wild beauty that is the Highlands, this land that has have captured the hearts of poets, painters and most folk for centuries.
This iconic route, the first designated multi-day walk in Scotland (back in 1980) is a long distance route that embodies the historical history of the landscape you walk through. The trail is one of the official national trails in Scotland known as “The Great Trails’. In fact the West Highland Way route itself, the very footsteps you walk along most of the trail is following the historic footsteps of those before you – the route follows much of Cauldfields’s military road built to enable English troops to quickly root out trouble during the Jacobite days, quelling resistance from the clans. The route also follows the old droving roads where cattle would be led to market from glens hundreds of miles away. Some of the accommodation on the route dates back to the 17th century such as the infamous, supposedly haunted, Drovers Inn.
Walkers with little or no experience of long distance treks are able to undertake the West Highland Way route. The trail is well marked, easy to follow and presents no real technical sections. With little elevation, the West Highland Way route winds along tracks, easy paths and along some minor roads. In fact, this is a lovely long distance trek is considered one of the easiest multi-day treks in the UK – perfect to cut your teeth on. Novices will find that as long as they are well prepared with the appropriate outdoor equipment (good outer gear, boots, rucksack) the West Highland Way I’m sure will be the first of many long distance treks to relish.
It’s important to note that walkers should not feel they need to stick to the 7 stages of the West Highland Way as detailed in guide books. Walkers need to recognise their own abilities and fitness levels and chop up the trail accordingly taking as long as they need to complete the West Highland Way trail. You can read more about the West Highland Way stages below and check out my suggested itineraries here.
West Highland Way Stages
Stage 1 – Milngavie to Drymen
An easy days walking from the surburbs of the city into the countryside through peaceful woods following a gentle undulating trail though farm land, along a disused railway path and country lanes. Make sure to pre-book a tour of the Glengoyne Whiskey Distillery – it’s a highlight of this stage and should not be missed.
Stage 2 – Drymen to Rowardennan
Departing the lovely village of Drymen you’ll tackle the climb up Conic Hill with the reward of stunning views over Loch Lomond to the Isle of Arran, the Arrochar Alps and to the north Ben Lomond. A pleasant lunch can be had at the Oak Tree Inn in the pretty loch side village of Balmaha before the trail hugs the shore of Loch Lomond on a beautiful trail with some rugged sections.
Stage 3 – Rowardennan to Crianlarich
A long challenging stage with beautiful views of Loch Lomond. Hugging the eastern side of the loch this path is technical and requires extra care however offers splendid vistas across the water interspersed with rocky coves and pretty beaches, as well as the distance from civilisation make this a lovely stage however I would recommend chopping this stage up into more manageable sections by adding an extra day to your itinerary. Those brave enough can organise an overnight stop at the 17th century coaching inn at Inverarnan. The Drovers Inn is one of the oldest inns in Scotland and reportedly one of the most haunted!
Stage 4 – Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy
A less spectacular day however still pleasant as the Highlands begin to finally feel within reach as you wander along the river with its rapids and falls through Glen Falloch. The surrounding mountains begin to make their presence known with fine views. Explore the ruined St Fillian’s Priory en-route to Tyndrum arriving in the beautiful Bridge of Orchy where the best scenery now lies before you.
Stage 5 – Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
A wonderful stage passing salmon rich Loch Tulla before crossing the remote Rannoch Moor culminating in the arrival at isolated Kingshouse affording panoramic views of classic highland beauty with the captivating Buachaille Etive Mór, the most photographed mountain in Scotland, stealing the show. Walkers crossing the 9 mile lonely stretch over Rannoch Moor in fine weather will feel the rousing sense of emotion that vast landscapes can bring. This exposed section can be daunting in foul weather.
Stage 6 – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Drink in the sweeping vistas approaching Glencoe with Buachaille Etive Mór ever more present. Brush past the maws of Glencoe with its tragic history to climb the infamous Devil’s Staircase revealing a first glimpse of Ben Nevis. Enjoy fine views coupled with a sense of solitude before a long descent into Kinlochleven.
Stage 7 – Kinlochleven to Fort William
A long but wonderful stage following the old military road through a magnificent glen with the evocative ruined cottage of Tigh-na-Sleubhaich cementing this truly remarkable Highland landscape. Exposed in bad weather. Bask in the fine views of Ben Nevis on the second half of the day before the anticipation of finally completing all 96 miles of the West Highland Way in Fort William
How difficult is the West Highland Way Route?
The West Highland Way route in actual fact, compared to other long distance trails, is relatively easy. There is little elevation on the West Highland Way trail and there is no need for trekking poles or any technical equipment. The total elevation of the route including the highest point (the Devil’s Staircase) is 4,312m (14,143ft).
Conic Hill on stage 2 at 361m is often a frequently discussed topic on WHW forums whilst the route’s highest point (554m) at the Devil’s Staircase on the penultimate day sounds notoriously difficult however in reality it’s over before you know it and you wonder what all the fuss is about. Don’t believe the hype.
The most difficult section of the West Highland Way route is in fact alongside the eastern shore of Loch Lomond on stages 2 and 3. People assume that this section will be a lovely gentle walk along the loch side. Wrong. Here the route is technical. The trail hugs the shoreline which makes for a tricky route. Plan to factor in extra time here or opt for the easier variant route on a 4×4 forestry track to avoid this section.
West Highland Way – how many days?
Most people tend to walk the West Highland Way trail in six to ten days depending on individual fitness, available time and the way in which people want to join the trail. There are plenty of pubs, transfixing scenery and wildflowers to enjoy along the trail meaning speed isn’t everything. Have a look at my recommended West Highland Way itineraries to check out different number of days and starting points. The linear trail can be accessed in most parts by public transport so its generally easy enough to dip in and out of the trail apart from the earlier stages along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond.