Kinlochleven to Fort William, the last of the West Highland Way stages is a long, remote stage offering little shelter and no-where to re-provision or stop overnight. It’s a fantastic stage where the loss of civilisation can finally be appreciated. Pray for good weather as once you’re in this stage, you’re in – there is nowhere to exit or any public transport to shorten this long day.

The trail from Kinlochleven to Fort William is easy enough apart from the initial steep climb leaving Kinlochleven. Winding its way through a remote glen to the top of Lairigmor (Gaelic for ‘great pass) you’ll pass the iconic ruin Tigh-na-Sleubhaich and one mile further another ruin Lairigmor – a reminder of the hill farmers that once worked the land. This West Highland Way stage is absolutely stunning in good or semi-decent weather, brutal in bad weather. During the second half of the trail walkers can expect good views of Ben Nevis (weather permitting).

The Kinlochleven to Fort William stage takes between 7-8 hours of continuous walking (without stops). For example the last time I trekked this section, I set off at 10am (I’d been waiting for the incessant rain to ease off), got to the junction point (where you can take an alternative route via the road to Fort William) at 13.30 and arrived after taking the shorter road (bad weather was coming in) at 16.00. It look longer with my Mum (70) back in May when we trekked – we set off in glorious weather at 9am and arrived at 18.00 at the finishing point in Fort William (taking the traditional route down with the view of Ben Nevis).

West Highland Way Stage – Kinlochleven to Fort William

Pick yourself up some lunch for today as there is no-where to buy food along the trail from Kinlochleven to Fort William. Mo’s next to the Co-Op is a fabulous busy little deli perfect for either a sausage or bacon roll and steaming coffee for breakfast or a crusty sandwich for lunch.

The first section from Kinlochleven is a tough 250m ascent through birch trees. Leaving Kinlochleven you’ll spot the old weathered signpost indicating the footpath to Fort William by the Lairig. The Lairig is the pass on this section. You’ll cross a myriad of narrow tracks so keep focused to stay on the trail, particularly in bad weather.

Initially zig zags facilitate the steep gradient then less so. It’s a shame that the fine view of Loch Leven are hidden in all but a few brief moments on the climb. Trekking the West Highland Way early season around Easter you do get more views of the loch on this section as the trees are still quite bare without their spring foliage – see the different of the same spot in April and late May (photos 2 and 3 below).

This section is renowned for its midges so have your face net ready to throw on. I’ve had early midges on this section right at the end of May. It can take 30-45 minutes to climb this section before the trail finally emerges from the birch forest to a fantastic view of the loch.

The trail follows the military road, old stones set hundreds of years ago into the landscape. This section gently climbs to the Lairimog pass at 335m with stunning classic ‘highland’ scenery, great swathes of vast landscape hemmed in by mountains on either side. After the Way has been so close to an ever present road for much of the last sections, drink in this U shaped valley and enjoy the silence. You’ll hear nothing but a handful of birds or the sound of the wind in this blissful section. Many ‘burns’ (large stream or small river) cross the Way now, most easy to hop over on foot, the wider burns crossed by foot bridges. If the weather is bad and rain has been plentiful, you may encounter wet feet in places.

My favourite section of the Kinlochleven to Fort William stage has to be arriving at the top of Lairigmor (which is not so obvious) but is marked by the sight of the iconic ruin Tigh-na-Sleubhaich (photo in header and below left). For me this is true Highland scenery and a sight to breathe in. The ruin can offer some shelter in inclement weather but some care should be taken of loose stones.

After passing Tigh-na-Sleubhaich the way continues still on a gentle, enjoyable gradient passing some fords along with some bridges before coming to Lairigmor, another ruin on the left. After passing over a deer gate, the West Highland Way trail turns north-west and begins to descent slightly. You’ve now been walking for 5 miles

Before long you’ll arrive at a sheepfold that spans over the trail. Here if the sheepfold is not in use you can just walk through the two gates, if it’s being used just follow the path around the sheepfold to the left. Next you’ll come to cairn and an information board on The Battle of Inverlochy and just ten minutes later reach the junction at the Lundavra Information Board (below top right).

The information board has pencils and a WHW survey for walkers who want to participate. At this junction you have a choice to follow the military road along an easier alternative route direct to Fort William. This alternative route is 4.5 miles along a public road taking approximately 2-2.5 hours saving 2 hours. It’s a good alternative if the weather is bad and if you need it, taxis can pick up at this gate. Some trekking companies pick their clients up here if they want a shorter day. The main trail bears right at the information board going via Glen Nevis to Fort William. It’s a further 7.5 miles with an approximate time of 3.5-4 hours. It’s definitely worth taking the traditional route here in good weather as immediately you will be rewarded with good views of Ben Nevis in good weather (below far right).

It’s worth noting that you can shorten the end of stage 7 by 3 miles (you last hour of walking) by catching bus 41 from Glen Nevis to Fort William. Some may feel this is cheating, however this last section is just walking along the road to Fort William. It can also ease the pain of seeing you still have 3.5-4 hours to go at this information board! Find info on bus 41 below.

The penultimate section of the West Highland Way stage 7 can be quite tiring. The trail undulates through felled, scarred landscape. The only redeeming feature really is the view of Ben Nevis. After hitting a high point (at last) through the felled plantation you’ll pass the hill of Dun Deardail – there’s a signpost to the right to its Iron Age fort which is 2500 years old (3 miles on from the information board). The sign says 400m but its a steep 75m climb. Dun Deardail was a vitrified fort (walls that were melted into a glassy mass by fire). Vitrified forts in Britain generally date back to between 100BC – 100AD. Very old!

From the fort junction it’s a further mile descending on a wide forest track where you’ll see a sharp turning for the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. Keep left and then take the next path to the right which descends down to the glen road.

If you’re wanting to pick up the Shiels 41 bus, this goes from outside the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. There’s generally only one bus in the morning around 9am (too early!) and one bus leaving late afternoon at 17.25 (2024). Time it wisely to catch this to shave an hour off at the end of your day.

Or continue on foot a further 2 miles of pavement pounding onto the Bridge of Nevis (the original end of the West Highland Way) and continue on into Fort William centre to the now official finish at the statue of the weary walker in front of the Black Isle Bar.